To repair your fuel filter, first obtain one. Then remove the old one and discard it (or dont if you dont have a new one, in which case you shouldnt be doing this lol). You may have to twist the filter gently to make it come off. Be careful because there may be gas/petrol still inside the filter (get a small cup or something to catch the gas so you can put it back in the fuel tank later. Get the new filter and insert the tube with the --> (arrow) into the fuel line leading to the carb (arrow points to the carburator, indicating the direction of fuel flow). Now insert the tube leading up back and above the oil bath air filter (comes from the fuel tank), and tighten both bolt straps tightly, but not so tight as to damage the fuel line or the filter.
To repair the fuel line, simply remove the bolt straps securing the fuel line to the engine and use the old fuel line to determine how long to make the two new fuel lines. Make sure that you have all four bolt straps on the tubes. Insert the correct fuel line onto the metal tube leading from the gas tank and the other tube onto the carb. Use the steps above to re/install the fuel filter.
Wednesday, February 28, 2007
Tuesday, February 27, 2007
1970 Beetle Drivebelt check, adjustment and replacement
*Drivebelt Check/Inspection* Do this before wasting money for a good belt...
First, check your drivebelt for these conditions: streaked sidewall, glazing (white crap on the belt), fraying (the inner part of the belt is corroding perpendicularly to the belt itself, inside to the outside), oil soaked (no comment...), cracks (no comment...), cracks (similar to fraying, only worse and deeper), tensile break (basically, a section of about an eighth- to a quarter-inch break where nothing else is that bad), separation (what a part of the belt splits from the main part of the belt anywhere).
*Adjustment* Use a flat screwdriver to hold the pulleys from the slot at the top of the belt system.
Use the washer rings that are on the front of the pulleys on the bolt to tighten or loosen the belt system. More washers will loosen the grip and distance of the belt, where reciprocally less washers tighten the pulleys together and tighten the belt. Easy, right?
*Replacement* Do this if your drivebelt has the damage listed above, or any other damage not listed that you think may impair the safe operation of you vehicle.
Do the steps above to take the nut off of the bolt of the belt system on top (in case you forgot or are lazy, use a flat screwdriver placed at the top of the belt system in the slot to stop the belt system from turning. Once you get the nut off, pull the washers (if not in use) and the first half of the pully off; place in a safe place. Remove the old belt, and put the new one on in its place, placing the top of the belt on top of the pulley on top. Replace the removed pulley part then the washers, then place the nut back on and tighten by hand, then tighten by ratchet or adjustable spanner. Make sure that the belt is tight enough. If not, remove the washers and the first have of the pulley and place one of the washers onto the bolt between the pulley halves to tighten, or remove one to loosen it; replace any removed washers onto the bolt so that the nut holds them in place (so you dont lose them). Done.
Good luck. And as before, I am not responsible for any damage done to your vehicle for improperly replacing the drivebelt or other parts that need replacing.
First, check your drivebelt for these conditions: streaked sidewall, glazing (white crap on the belt), fraying (the inner part of the belt is corroding perpendicularly to the belt itself, inside to the outside), oil soaked (no comment...), cracks (no comment...), cracks (similar to fraying, only worse and deeper), tensile break (basically, a section of about an eighth- to a quarter-inch break where nothing else is that bad), separation (what a part of the belt splits from the main part of the belt anywhere).
*Adjustment* Use a flat screwdriver to hold the pulleys from the slot at the top of the belt system.
Use the washer rings that are on the front of the pulleys on the bolt to tighten or loosen the belt system. More washers will loosen the grip and distance of the belt, where reciprocally less washers tighten the pulleys together and tighten the belt. Easy, right?
*Replacement* Do this if your drivebelt has the damage listed above, or any other damage not listed that you think may impair the safe operation of you vehicle.
Do the steps above to take the nut off of the bolt of the belt system on top (in case you forgot or are lazy, use a flat screwdriver placed at the top of the belt system in the slot to stop the belt system from turning. Once you get the nut off, pull the washers (if not in use) and the first half of the pully off; place in a safe place. Remove the old belt, and put the new one on in its place, placing the top of the belt on top of the pulley on top. Replace the removed pulley part then the washers, then place the nut back on and tighten by hand, then tighten by ratchet or adjustable spanner. Make sure that the belt is tight enough. If not, remove the washers and the first have of the pulley and place one of the washers onto the bolt between the pulley halves to tighten, or remove one to loosen it; replace any removed washers onto the bolt so that the nut holds them in place (so you dont lose them). Done.
Good luck. And as before, I am not responsible for any damage done to your vehicle for improperly replacing the drivebelt or other parts that need replacing.
1970 Beetle Oil Bath Air Cleaner service
*Note: My repair manual tells me that 1973 and later models have a replaceable paper air filter located inside a housing in the engine compartment. You gotta be dumb as a box of door nails to not be able to figure out how to replace a paper (modern) air filter, so I'm not going to explain it.
Here's one that alot of new antique beetle owners dont know about. In the older model vehicles, they used to use an air filter that uses oil to clean the air, called an Oil Bath Air Cleaner. What happens is that at the bottom of the topmost part of your engine, there is oil in the bottom of the pan. As air is pulled in, it makes a 90 degree turn downwards, then sideways, then up, and around into the air intake, briefly like this: _<-air flow. When the air makes the downward trip, it hits the oil and the heavy particles hit the oil and get trapped, then the air makes the trip into the intake manifold. Its that simple. Service is about that simple too.
1. Depending on your car, you may have to take the deck lid off (the "hood" over the engine in the rear) to remove the oil bath air filter; with my beetle its not that necessary. To get the oil bath off you may need to loosen a bolt strap or something that keeps it tight on the air intake manifold.
2. Once you get the oil bath air filter and/or the decklid off, flip the pop lever things that keep the cap on. Take the lid off of the air filter and look at the level of oil inside the bottom of the bottom piece.
3. There should be a line or a making of some sort telling the level of oil. Fill the oil bath air cleaner with the same oil you use to fill the engine oil sump with. Now place the oil bath cover back on, careful not to damage anything. Snap the snap things on again, making the cap secure to the bottom piece. Place the hole in the bottom of the filter onto the neck of the air intake. You may have to twist it gently back and forth to get it back on, then tighten the bolt strap. There should be a braided oil hose about a half-inch thick that runs from somewhere on the oil bath. Run that tube down to the oil filler neck and place it back onto the same sized opening on the oil filler neck. This allows for oil that is over-filled in the oil bath air filter to be forced back into the oil filler neck (or to a pipe that runs under the car to the road, like mine does).
*4. If you had to take the decklid off, now you may reattach the decklid. If you like, the next time you remove the decklid, you can order things called "decklid risers" that make a slight gap between the decklid and the chassis of the car, allowing for extra working space in the engine, or just for showing off!
Once again, good luck, and dont do anything illegal, such as dumping the old oil into the street or something stupid like that!
Here's one that alot of new antique beetle owners dont know about. In the older model vehicles, they used to use an air filter that uses oil to clean the air, called an Oil Bath Air Cleaner. What happens is that at the bottom of the topmost part of your engine, there is oil in the bottom of the pan. As air is pulled in, it makes a 90 degree turn downwards, then sideways, then up, and around into the air intake, briefly like this: _<-air flow. When the air makes the downward trip, it hits the oil and the heavy particles hit the oil and get trapped, then the air makes the trip into the intake manifold. Its that simple. Service is about that simple too.
1. Depending on your car, you may have to take the deck lid off (the "hood" over the engine in the rear) to remove the oil bath air filter; with my beetle its not that necessary. To get the oil bath off you may need to loosen a bolt strap or something that keeps it tight on the air intake manifold.
2. Once you get the oil bath air filter and/or the decklid off, flip the pop lever things that keep the cap on. Take the lid off of the air filter and look at the level of oil inside the bottom of the bottom piece.
3. There should be a line or a making of some sort telling the level of oil. Fill the oil bath air cleaner with the same oil you use to fill the engine oil sump with. Now place the oil bath cover back on, careful not to damage anything. Snap the snap things on again, making the cap secure to the bottom piece. Place the hole in the bottom of the filter onto the neck of the air intake. You may have to twist it gently back and forth to get it back on, then tighten the bolt strap. There should be a braided oil hose about a half-inch thick that runs from somewhere on the oil bath. Run that tube down to the oil filler neck and place it back onto the same sized opening on the oil filler neck. This allows for oil that is over-filled in the oil bath air filter to be forced back into the oil filler neck (or to a pipe that runs under the car to the road, like mine does).
*4. If you had to take the decklid off, now you may reattach the decklid. If you like, the next time you remove the decklid, you can order things called "decklid risers" that make a slight gap between the decklid and the chassis of the car, allowing for extra working space in the engine, or just for showing off!
Once again, good luck, and dont do anything illegal, such as dumping the old oil into the street or something stupid like that!
1970 Beetle Tire Rotation
This one is easy if you have the right gear. Radial tire rotation with four tires goes: Left rear to left front and vice versa; Right rear to right front, and vice versa. It is recommended to regularly rotate you spare as well, putting it into a certain spot, but I dont remember which (I will update sometime when I remember or read about it again.)
Beetle Transaxle lube level check
1. Raise the vehicle and support it firmly on jackstands.
2. On the driver's side of the transaxle housing, you will see a plug. Remove it with a 17mm (millimeter) hex wrench (thats what it says in the repair manual, 17mm hex wrench). Use your finger as a dipstick. If the level is correct, it should be up to the lower edge of the hole.
3. If the level is low, use a lube/grease pump to add more. Use the type proper for your car. My 1970 Beetle takes API GL-5 SAE 75W90W or 80W90W Hypoid Gear Oil.
4. Stop filling when the grease starts coming out of the hole, this means the grease reservoir is full.
5. Install the plug and tighten it securely. Drive the car for a short distance, then check for leaks; tighten if necessary.
2. On the driver's side of the transaxle housing, you will see a plug. Remove it with a 17mm (millimeter) hex wrench (thats what it says in the repair manual, 17mm hex wrench). Use your finger as a dipstick. If the level is correct, it should be up to the lower edge of the hole.
3. If the level is low, use a lube/grease pump to add more. Use the type proper for your car. My 1970 Beetle takes API GL-5 SAE 75W90W or 80W90W Hypoid Gear Oil.
4. Stop filling when the grease starts coming out of the hole, this means the grease reservoir is full.
5. Install the plug and tighten it securely. Drive the car for a short distance, then check for leaks; tighten if necessary.
Oil Change Basics for your 1970 Beetle...
(or any beetle close to 1970)
If you are wondering, yes I have done this before, so I know that if I can do it without jackstands, anyone can do this! Oh yeah, and read through this whole instructional so that you at least somewhat know what you are doing... AND DONT DO ANYTHING ILLEGAL LIKE DUMP IT IN THE STORM DRAIN!!
1. First and foremost! DO NOT EVER DO WORK UNDER ANY CAR SUPPORTED WITH ONLY A JACK!
2. Raise the vehicle somehow so that you can easily access the oil sump bolt under the rear of the car (yes, for those "newbees" the engine is in the rear....
3. Run your beetle for a few minutes until the vehicle reaches normal engine temp, maybe ten minutes. A warm engine will allow the oil and sludge to drain out more easily.
4. Make sure that you have an oil drain tray or something that will fit under the car. Sometimes a cardboard box with a garbage or rubbish bin bag inside will do. Also make sure you have plenty of rags and something to store the oil for PROPER AND LEGAL disposal.
5. You may want to wear gloves if you are squeemish of oil on your hands or are not too tolerant of hot stuff on you. Now remove the center bolt, if equipped. Dont worry about dropping the bolt into the oil pant, you can get it later, so dont freak out.
6. Once the oil is done draining (approximately a half-hour, more if you are the "good to the last drop" kind of person). I once read an instructional on this topic written by a brit bloke who said now is a good time to get a cup of tea and some scones; if you're american, go get a beer or coffee and a donut or something.
7. Inspect the oil that drained out for metal pieces or metal shavings, if you have some, this could be a problem.
8. Wipe the drain plug with a "clean" rag (if you dont clean the bolt, you could potentially contaminate the brand new oil...)
9. After the oil is done draining, screw the bolt back in by hand until you cant turn it by hand anymore, then tighten with a wrench about a quarter turn, careful not to strip or damage the threads of the bolt (this is a bad thing...!)
10. Remove the six bolts around the perimiter of the center bolt (as before, if equipped with a center bolt. If not, this is where you start draining the oil.)
11. Remove the cover and the oil screen (yes, I said oil SCREEN)
12. Clean and inspect the oil screen and cover for damage or what-have-you. If the paper gasket or anything is stuck to the metal opening, you can CAREFULLY scrape it off with a flat-tipped screwdriver or a scraper of some sort.
13. Now clean the mounting surfaces on the oil sump opening that is now gaping open.
14. Using the new gaskets and "crush washers" that normally come together in a pack, install the oil screen and cover (might be a little tricky if this is your first time).
15. Here is the order of sequence that you will use to minimize the damage to the sump or the bolts/nuts... See the ones that are on the left and right sides of the car? For the sake of arguement, lets say the one on the left is 1. Tighten 1 loosely. Now tighten 2 which is opposite on the right side of the car. Now 3 is above 1; tighten it loosely. 4 is opposite of 3, below 2 on the right side of the car. 5 is above 3 on the right side of the car, tighten it loosely. 6 is below 1 on the left side of the car, tighten it loosely. You should now have all 6 bolts loosely tightened. now do the same order as before, tightening in order one at a time until you can no longer tighten any BY HAND. Now get you wrench or adjustable spanner (crescent wrench) or a ratchet and tighten until the nuts are tight but not so tight as to damage the bolts or nuts.
16. Remove the pan and all rags from under the car carefully so to not spill any oil, then lower the vehicle carefully to the ground. If you are on wheel ramps, I would suggest having a friend or family member watch the car and wheels to make sure you dont fall of the ramps, damaging the vehicle, then an oil change is the least of your problems!
17. Now, after you are sure that you didnt screw anything up, add two and a half quarts of the proper oil to your beetle (My 1970 Beetle takes SAE 10W-30 for an environment from 0 degrees F to 100 degrees F. If you are in a cold area, my repair manual suggests SAE 5W-30 from -20F to +100F).
18. Check the dipstick level after allowing a few minutes for the oil to settle into the engine and the oil sump (where you just drained the oil from). If it is still low, add about a quarter to a half quart of oil, wait a few then check again. Once you get the oil within the MIN-MAX safe level, place the cap back on the filler neck and start the car for a few minutes to allow the oil to flow through the engine system (about a minute or two. If you're a beetle nut with an oil expansion sump for extra oil, you may run for a few more minutes, if you want... Do what ever you want! I dont care! Lol just kidding!
19. For the first few trips, check the oil level and under the car for oil leaks. If there is an oil leak under the car, check the bolt. Tighten it if it is loose. If it continues to leak in the next few days, think back to wether or not you had a gasket on the center bolt, or if you actually put a paper gasket in the oil sump opening where you put the oil screen in and where the oil drain, the oil WILL LEAK... Trust me, I know this first-hand!!
20. Here is the legal part that I briefly mentioned earlier about disposal... put the oil into a sealable container, like a milk jug or something with a cap that can contain most of the oil. Take it to a gas station, oil reclamation center, a garbage/rubbish dump/landfill that accepts the oil.
***Disclaimer: I shall not be held responsible for someone writing me back or leaving me a comment saying something along the lines of "The police officer/bobby/sheriff gave me a fine for dumping the oil down the storm drain or disposing of it in the garbage..." Depending on your area/location/country, this could be a felony, and I shall not be held responsible. I gave you the proper/legal places to dispose of used oil...
If you are wondering, yes I have done this before, so I know that if I can do it without jackstands, anyone can do this! Oh yeah, and read through this whole instructional so that you at least somewhat know what you are doing... AND DONT DO ANYTHING ILLEGAL LIKE DUMP IT IN THE STORM DRAIN!!
1. First and foremost! DO NOT EVER DO WORK UNDER ANY CAR SUPPORTED WITH ONLY A JACK!
2. Raise the vehicle somehow so that you can easily access the oil sump bolt under the rear of the car (yes, for those "newbees" the engine is in the rear....
3. Run your beetle for a few minutes until the vehicle reaches normal engine temp, maybe ten minutes. A warm engine will allow the oil and sludge to drain out more easily.
4. Make sure that you have an oil drain tray or something that will fit under the car. Sometimes a cardboard box with a garbage or rubbish bin bag inside will do. Also make sure you have plenty of rags and something to store the oil for PROPER AND LEGAL disposal.
5. You may want to wear gloves if you are squeemish of oil on your hands or are not too tolerant of hot stuff on you. Now remove the center bolt, if equipped. Dont worry about dropping the bolt into the oil pant, you can get it later, so dont freak out.
6. Once the oil is done draining (approximately a half-hour, more if you are the "good to the last drop" kind of person). I once read an instructional on this topic written by a brit bloke who said now is a good time to get a cup of tea and some scones; if you're american, go get a beer or coffee and a donut or something.
7. Inspect the oil that drained out for metal pieces or metal shavings, if you have some, this could be a problem.
8. Wipe the drain plug with a "clean" rag (if you dont clean the bolt, you could potentially contaminate the brand new oil...)
9. After the oil is done draining, screw the bolt back in by hand until you cant turn it by hand anymore, then tighten with a wrench about a quarter turn, careful not to strip or damage the threads of the bolt (this is a bad thing...!)
10. Remove the six bolts around the perimiter of the center bolt (as before, if equipped with a center bolt. If not, this is where you start draining the oil.)
11. Remove the cover and the oil screen (yes, I said oil SCREEN)
12. Clean and inspect the oil screen and cover for damage or what-have-you. If the paper gasket or anything is stuck to the metal opening, you can CAREFULLY scrape it off with a flat-tipped screwdriver or a scraper of some sort.
13. Now clean the mounting surfaces on the oil sump opening that is now gaping open.
14. Using the new gaskets and "crush washers" that normally come together in a pack, install the oil screen and cover (might be a little tricky if this is your first time).
15. Here is the order of sequence that you will use to minimize the damage to the sump or the bolts/nuts... See the ones that are on the left and right sides of the car? For the sake of arguement, lets say the one on the left is 1. Tighten 1 loosely. Now tighten 2 which is opposite on the right side of the car. Now 3 is above 1; tighten it loosely. 4 is opposite of 3, below 2 on the right side of the car. 5 is above 3 on the right side of the car, tighten it loosely. 6 is below 1 on the left side of the car, tighten it loosely. You should now have all 6 bolts loosely tightened. now do the same order as before, tightening in order one at a time until you can no longer tighten any BY HAND. Now get you wrench or adjustable spanner (crescent wrench) or a ratchet and tighten until the nuts are tight but not so tight as to damage the bolts or nuts.
16. Remove the pan and all rags from under the car carefully so to not spill any oil, then lower the vehicle carefully to the ground. If you are on wheel ramps, I would suggest having a friend or family member watch the car and wheels to make sure you dont fall of the ramps, damaging the vehicle, then an oil change is the least of your problems!
17. Now, after you are sure that you didnt screw anything up, add two and a half quarts of the proper oil to your beetle (My 1970 Beetle takes SAE 10W-30 for an environment from 0 degrees F to 100 degrees F. If you are in a cold area, my repair manual suggests SAE 5W-30 from -20F to +100F).
18. Check the dipstick level after allowing a few minutes for the oil to settle into the engine and the oil sump (where you just drained the oil from). If it is still low, add about a quarter to a half quart of oil, wait a few then check again. Once you get the oil within the MIN-MAX safe level, place the cap back on the filler neck and start the car for a few minutes to allow the oil to flow through the engine system (about a minute or two. If you're a beetle nut with an oil expansion sump for extra oil, you may run for a few more minutes, if you want... Do what ever you want! I dont care! Lol just kidding!
19. For the first few trips, check the oil level and under the car for oil leaks. If there is an oil leak under the car, check the bolt. Tighten it if it is loose. If it continues to leak in the next few days, think back to wether or not you had a gasket on the center bolt, or if you actually put a paper gasket in the oil sump opening where you put the oil screen in and where the oil drain, the oil WILL LEAK... Trust me, I know this first-hand!!
20. Here is the legal part that I briefly mentioned earlier about disposal... put the oil into a sealable container, like a milk jug or something with a cap that can contain most of the oil. Take it to a gas station, oil reclamation center, a garbage/rubbish dump/landfill that accepts the oil.
***Disclaimer: I shall not be held responsible for someone writing me back or leaving me a comment saying something along the lines of "The police officer/bobby/sheriff gave me a fine for dumping the oil down the storm drain or disposing of it in the garbage..." Depending on your area/location/country, this could be a felony, and I shall not be held responsible. I gave you the proper/legal places to dispose of used oil...
Gentlemen, start you blogs!
This being my first post, I'll tell you that most of this blog will be about my restoration of my 1970 Beetle (Type 1 for those that dont know about beetles). More to come when I find pics or I feel like posting what I've done so far, whether or not there are accompanying pics.
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