Oil Change Basics for your 1970 Beetle...

(or any beetle close to 1970)

If you are wondering, yes I have done this before, so I know that if I can do it without jackstands, anyone can do this! Oh yeah, and read through this whole instructional so that you at least somewhat know what you are doing... AND DONT DO ANYTHING ILLEGAL LIKE DUMP IT IN THE STORM DRAIN!!

1. First and foremost! DO NOT EVER DO WORK UNDER ANY CAR SUPPORTED WITH ONLY A JACK!
2. Raise the vehicle somehow so that you can easily access the oil sump bolt under the rear of the car (yes, for those "newbees" the engine is in the rear....
3. Run your beetle for a few minutes until the vehicle reaches normal engine temp, maybe ten minutes. A warm engine will allow the oil and sludge to drain out more easily.
4. Make sure that you have an oil drain tray or something that will fit under the car. Sometimes a cardboard box with a garbage or rubbish bin bag inside will do. Also make sure you have plenty of rags and something to store the oil for PROPER AND LEGAL disposal.
5. You may want to wear gloves if you are squeemish of oil on your hands or are not too tolerant of hot stuff on you. Now remove the center bolt, if equipped. Dont worry about dropping the bolt into the oil pant, you can get it later, so dont freak out.
6. Once the oil is done draining (approximately a half-hour, more if you are the "good to the last drop" kind of person). I once read an instructional on this topic written by a brit bloke who said now is a good time to get a cup of tea and some scones; if you're american, go get a beer or coffee and a donut or something.
7. Inspect the oil that drained out for metal pieces or metal shavings, if you have some, this could be a problem.
8. Wipe the drain plug with a "clean" rag (if you dont clean the bolt, you could potentially contaminate the brand new oil...)
9. After the oil is done draining, screw the bolt back in by hand until you cant turn it by hand anymore, then tighten with a wrench about a quarter turn, careful not to strip or damage the threads of the bolt (this is a bad thing...!)
10. Remove the six bolts around the perimiter of the center bolt (as before, if equipped with a center bolt. If not, this is where you start draining the oil.)
11. Remove the cover and the oil screen (yes, I said oil SCREEN)
12. Clean and inspect the oil screen and cover for damage or what-have-you. If the paper gasket or anything is stuck to the metal opening, you can CAREFULLY scrape it off with a flat-tipped screwdriver or a scraper of some sort.
13. Now clean the mounting surfaces on the oil sump opening that is now gaping open.
14. Using the new gaskets and "crush washers" that normally come together in a pack, install the oil screen and cover (might be a little tricky if this is your first time).
15. Here is the order of sequence that you will use to minimize the damage to the sump or the bolts/nuts... See the ones that are on the left and right sides of the car? For the sake of arguement, lets say the one on the left is 1. Tighten 1 loosely. Now tighten 2 which is opposite on the right side of the car. Now 3 is above 1; tighten it loosely. 4 is opposite of 3, below 2 on the right side of the car. 5 is above 3 on the right side of the car, tighten it loosely. 6 is below 1 on the left side of the car, tighten it loosely. You should now have all 6 bolts loosely tightened. now do the same order as before, tightening in order one at a time until you can no longer tighten any BY HAND. Now get you wrench or adjustable spanner (crescent wrench) or a ratchet and tighten until the nuts are tight but not so tight as to damage the bolts or nuts.
16. Remove the pan and all rags from under the car carefully so to not spill any oil, then lower the vehicle carefully to the ground. If you are on wheel ramps, I would suggest having a friend or family member watch the car and wheels to make sure you dont fall of the ramps, damaging the vehicle, then an oil change is the least of your problems!
17. Now, after you are sure that you didnt screw anything up, add two and a half quarts of the proper oil to your beetle (My 1970 Beetle takes SAE 10W-30 for an environment from 0 degrees F to 100 degrees F. If you are in a cold area, my repair manual suggests SAE 5W-30 from -20F to +100F).
18. Check the dipstick level after allowing a few minutes for the oil to settle into the engine and the oil sump (where you just drained the oil from). If it is still low, add about a quarter to a half quart of oil, wait a few then check again. Once you get the oil within the MIN-MAX safe level, place the cap back on the filler neck and start the car for a few minutes to allow the oil to flow through the engine system (about a minute or two. If you're a beetle nut with an oil expansion sump for extra oil, you may run for a few more minutes, if you want... Do what ever you want! I dont care! Lol just kidding!
19. For the first few trips, check the oil level and under the car for oil leaks. If there is an oil leak under the car, check the bolt. Tighten it if it is loose. If it continues to leak in the next few days, think back to wether or not you had a gasket on the center bolt, or if you actually put a paper gasket in the oil sump opening where you put the oil screen in and where the oil drain, the oil WILL LEAK... Trust me, I know this first-hand!!
20. Here is the legal part that I briefly mentioned earlier about disposal... put the oil into a sealable container, like a milk jug or something with a cap that can contain most of the oil. Take it to a gas station, oil reclamation center, a garbage/rubbish dump/landfill that accepts the oil.

***Disclaimer: I shall not be held responsible for someone writing me back or leaving me a comment saying something along the lines of "The police officer/bobby/sheriff gave me a fine for dumping the oil down the storm drain or disposing of it in the garbage..." Depending on your area/location/country, this could be a felony, and I shall not be held responsible. I gave you the proper/legal places to dispose of used oil...